Trust the Lonely Planet

So there I was about to set off from Panaji for Gokarna. Z had advised me to try take a cab. But in an unusual attempt at economy, I decided to take a bus. People had given us widely different estimates of distane ranging from 150-250 Kms and there was no way I was prepared to shell out 3-4 grand for the cab.

Ought to have realized at the outset that things were not going to go exactly as plan. Got to the bus station and found that the next bus to Karwar (which was the closest town to Gokarna) wouldn't leave for another 2.5 hours. But a very helpful guy at the enquiry suggested that I take a bus to Madgaon from where I'd get a bus to Karwar earlier than that. Found out at the first sign post that Karwar was just 100 kms or so and then Gokarna was just another 50 or so from there. Almost changed my mind and thought I ought to have taken the cab, but Z wasn't coming anyway and it seeemed such a waste of money to hire a cab for just me all alone.

Got to Madgaon. Utter chaos at the bus station. No clue where the bus would come and when. Asked the guy at the enquiry and he pointed out this bunch of Israelis to me and said that they were going to gokarna too and all I had to do was get on the same bus they did. Wonderful! So now I'm supposed to rely on tourists to guide me ;-) Well, surprisingly those guys did know their way around way better than I did and despite not knowing a word of hindi, seemed to be managing pretty well. Probably no hindi is better than my broken and accented hindi. Note to self: broken english works better in Goa than hindi anytime.

Followed the Israeli gang and got on board a direct bus to Gokarna. Hadn't had lunch yet as I expected to get there around 4 or so. Put on my headphones and listened to some ballads as this was looking like one trip where my nerves might get really frayed ;-) The bus seemed to be moving pretty fast but by 3 we were not even at Karwar. That is when I started to get a little worried (understatement of the year! To say that I freaked out would be more like it!). Sounded out the conductor on when we were supposed to get to Karwar. He said 4!!! Karwar at 4! That'd mean Gokarna at 5 or later than that. And my uncle had told me that the last bus back was at 7:30. Great! So I travel all that way for just 2 hours! But at least I'd get back around 1. Nope! Just when I thought things could definitely not get worse it turned out that it really could. Found after further conversation with the conductor that the last bus back to Madgaon was actually the same one that was taking me to Gokarna. So if I wanted to go back all I would get to see is the bus station at Gokarna :-( I definitely needed to get back if I didn't want to spend my last relaxed day in Goa sitting in a bus that'd take half the day to travel 150 odd Kms. No, I'm not complaining about the heat or the dust or any of it. Just that I really couldn't see a bus trip back as a good way to spend what would be my last full day in Goa. Called up my Uncle and reached the Hotel instead where they told me that I'd definitely be able to get a cab back. This was not about mone anymore!!! 2-3 grand couldn't buy me another day in Goa anytime soon. Once i figured that I could get back, i began to relax and actually didn't mind the bus ride anymore. Even started playing a couple of sets of PVD to help me get into a party mood :-) Had heard that Gokarna has a wonderfully secluded beach and is supposed to be the destination for the ravers.

The bus speeded up and started making such a racket and then the whole floor started to feel like it was moving under my feet! Couldn't believe that this was supposed to be the way it was! Looked around only to find the Israelis also looking quizzically at me for reassurance. We just looked at each other, shook our heads and burst out laughing. But really, I am not being this spoilt urban Indian (or the male equivalent of "the memsahib" as Z puts it). Have travelled in local buses lots of times. But this one took the cake! Rumor among mallus has it that the Kerala transport buses are bought off from the Tamilnadu transport when they junk it. Think that Goa buys the buses that Kerala junks ;-)

Finally reached Gokarna after another 2 hours without anybody dying (think that the bus not dying on us en route was a minor miracle - Hallelujah!). Trekked through the hill and some paths where I met less than a dozen people coming the other way. This didn't look like the way to any beach! Reached the top of the hill and continued down. Passed a small gap in a wall and there I was on the best goddamn beach I'd ever seen! No kidding! Really clean almost white sand and best of all - hardly a dozen people on the beach!!! There were all of three beach shacks and I walked into the first to find people sipping on a beer. Was a tad disappointed because I'd expected to see grass quite openly being smoked ;-) Well, wasn't disappointed for long because come nightfall the place started rocking and people were smoking chillums right in the shacks! Nah, didn't try that. Already do too many things ;-) Guessed that having picked up smoking again was bad enough and I could do without anything new.

Started back at close to 10:30. The cabbie seemed to know the route really well and drove pretty fast. Two guys who tagged along from the beach shack were rolling a joing in the back and we were all doing pretty good. All three guys seemed addicted to old hindi love songs from my school days. Heard Dil, QSQT for the first time since the 90s ;-) And we were soon singing along to it quite noisily and rather out of tune. If he'd played Aashiqui as well, that'd have completed the only 3 Hindi movie tracks that i've liked!

Sudden msg from Z saying that it is urgent! Called up to find that she was lost and couldn't find her way back to the hotel. Looked up the lonely planet for the map and called her up only to find that she'd managed to find her way back. Whew - that sure must be a relief!

Panaji! Finally got back there at 1:15 or so and then discovered that I was lost. Again pulled out the old reliable (my Lonely Planet) and guided the driver to the hotel. What a relief it was to get back! Felt like I'd been gone for days! Wanted to take a warm shower more than anything else. Z wanted to as well. Found that we didn't have running hot water till 5 AM. How wonderful! Took a cold shower at 2 AM that reminded me of IIMK days. But I've never ever felt so relieved after a bath! Felt like I'd washed away an year's worth of grime ;-)

Lesson of the day: Trust the Lonely Planet blindly! I ought to have listened to the Lonely Planet which suggested that my estimate of 4 hours was wildly optimistic! Or to Z whose advice I came to rely on in those 3 days. Z: Thanks for being there and playing shrink, best friend and philosopher!

ubergeek, the